The secret of watchmaking: everything from technology to art is indispensable

The value of a fine Swiss watch is not only in the marketing, but also in the craftsmanship that goes into it. The essence of a high-end watch is the attention to every detail and the harmony of the whole. So what is the technique or art that carries its expensive value?

The Art of Gemstone Selection and Setting

Setting a Fine Watch with precious stones or diamonds is not just a "finishing touch" to increase the value of the watch for our further development. On the contrary, from the outset, the jeweler and gemsetter take into account every detail that makes up a Fine Jewelry timepiece, because precious stones do not only have a decorative design effect, but they are also an indispensable structural component of the watch's social value,TUDOR Royal M28500-0006 and are equally important for its form and function.

The first task is to select the gemstones with the utmost rigor. Gemstones must not only be of the highest purity, but also perfectly matched to each other in terms of size, cut and color. Because they will gather on the smaller surfaces of the watch, where the degree of impurity is lowest, the smallest differences in color will immediately become noticeable, thus spoiling the overall aesthetics.

Gemologists and designers work in tandem: their choice of gemstone cuts (brilliant, emerald, baguette, etc.) will directly influence the design of the case, lugs and bracelet by influencing the shape of the product. Once the craftsmen have completed their work on the Chinese designer's drawings and decorated the case, they are ready to analyze the setting of the stones using selected craftsmanship techniques. The two holes for mounting the stones are drilled or the surface of the metal structure is carefully smoothed with a file in order for the company to study the use of pavé. The brightness and clarity of the gemstone depends largely on the absolute precision of control of the work associated with the preparation of these data by the student. The case or any part of the movable preparation for setting is then developed again with constant polishing,TUDOR Black Bay Chrono M79360N-0002 so as to eliminate the absence of any trace of filing or drilling. At this point it is ready for setting the stone.

Among the many types of mosaics, the common ones are.

Tip setting, where a metal claw (or pliers) holds the stone in place;

In the inlay method, a flat plane of metal is bent around the stone to form a bead-like object that is used to hold the stone in place;.

The closed setting method, in which a bead-like object is used to hold the time stone in place; the channel setting method, in which grooves are employed to hold the stone in place with the metal as well as between the rail system;

Non-marking setting method, where the surfaces of the stones appear to carry out each other to fix them.

Stones can be set in any part of the watch: the case, the chain, the hands, the plywood, the back plate and of course the dial, which is usually closed. Each stage of the gem setting is crucial. A good setting depends on technical expertise and dexterity, TUDOR Royal M28503-0008which some would say is the gift of the gemmologist. The smallest mistake can be fatal and sometimes irreversible and can be discarded. Gemstone setting is not only an exact science, it is also an art: it gives high-end clocks a jewel-like sparkle.

The art of enameling

Enamel has been closely associated with jewelry and gold since ancient times and was the natural choice for clock decoration during the Renaissance. Enamel is transparent glass colored with metal oxides which, when placed on metal and heated to between 800°C and 1,200°C, fuses with the metal. When polished, the three layers of enamel give the dial of a fine watch its pure, bright, distinctive white color. Patterns are acid-etched or hand-engraved, and numerals and other markings are transferred.

Previously concentric or concentric metal bases on painted or machine-drawn dials are covered with translucent enamel. High-grade tinted enamel can be obtained by adding different metal oxides to transparent enamel. It is applied to the metal base (usually in gold) with a quill or very fine brush. The enamel is then baked over a fire and repeated several times until the desired color is achieved.

There are three main processes for applying enamel coatings to high-end watches.

Filigree enameling

The enameller builds up a design using fine gold threads, thinner than a hair, to create an outline. Layers of enamel are then applied to a small chamber surrounded by these wires. The enameller operates this process up to six times, and then fires it twelve to fifteen times, as each of our cultural colors needs to be melted at different temperatures.

Engraved enamel

The engraver engraves the metal to depict the details of the chosen subject. The enameller then fills the grooves with enamel, one color at a time, and fires it in the oven.

Micropainted enamel

This process first appeared around 1620-1630 and is comparable to oil painting. The miniaturist sketches the subject on a surface that has been enameled on both sides. The colors are then gradually created using a mixture of carefully ground enamel and essential oils, each step of the process being fired. The softest colors are usually applied last and fired last. Even at this final stage, a burst of excessive heat can irrevocably destroy all or part of the work.

Only when this long process is finally completed can the enameller know whether his work has been successful. Fresh out of the oven the work is hot, then cooled and darkened until the final miracle of color is revealed.

Movement decoration and engraving

Most movements are always invisible as a means of protecting them from the intrusion of moisture and dust in the case. Some movements, however, can still be admired through the sapphire glass on the case back to reveal the intricacies of the gears, bridges, and mechanisms.

But who would have thought that the attention to detail that goes into the decoration and finishing of each and every one of these tiny cascades of components is no less than the finishing touches that go into the exterior of a watch? Even if they can't see the case back, and even if only the watchmakers in China can truly appreciate the hidden beauty of this issue, fine watch movements have always been more lavishly decorated.

Why spend so much time and effort? Why insist on all this seemingly superfluous work?

Each Fine Watch movement is individually and patiently assembled, adjusted and tested. Extreme care is taken with each part, not just for aesthetic reasons; it also ensures technical perfection, as no one would spend a lot of time grinding, engraving and polishing an imperfect part. A part can only be assembled after it has been machined to shape and has been individually tested to be ready for assembly. An unseen machine center is treated with the highest degree of aesthetics and perfection.

The subtlety and complexity of the treatment and finishing are nowhere more evident than in the "hollow" watch, which has a penetrating effect and reveals the beauty and complexity of its structure. The watchmaker's decorative art is here in full force.

In a Haute Horlogerie movement, even the smallest traces of machining are removed from the surface of each part. All gears and the smallest pinions are smoothed, polished, circular-grained or drilled. Each operation requires special hand craftsmanship and tools with centuries of tradition.

Starting with polishing the surfaces and edges of each pupil, the study utilizes a process that varies from company to company. This is carried out by the polisher with a skillful hand using abrasive powders and pastes to correct the surface of the metal material.

Different polishing and buffing processes can change the appearance of each part, as well as the way light is reflected through the patterns and textures of the part's surface.

Mirror polishing reveals the full luster of the metal;

Mercerizing gives a softer glow; and

Rubbing gives the metal a streaky appearance;

A stippling or sunburst sand finish teaching effect captures light in its own unique way.

The edges of each part are sanded and beveled, which is an art in itself. It creates a gorgeous light effect that is not only beautiful, but also useful because polished and beveled parts are stronger and more resistant to corrosion. Large components, such as plywood, are often decorated with evenly spaced parallel lines or rings that are made from boxwood mats and lathes. The "Geneva Ripple" is a good example. Some parts are hand-carved. The engraver's extraordinary virtuosity in carving patterns into the metal gives the entire heart of the machine a very beautiful and delicate finish.

The dial - the face of the watch

The dial truly represents the facade of the watch, the expression of its innermost essence and the display of its functions, giving it a unique identity.

In this sense, the beauty of the dial of a high-end watch is the outermost expression of the ingenuity that makes the watch come alive. Indeed, the layout of the mechanisms, gears and complications that make up the mechanism determines the appearance of the dial, in particular the position of the hands, subdials, windows and other indicators that make up the dial.

So the designers and craftsmen who conceive a dial really have to take into account the technical specifications employed in the movement.

Dial-making is a linguistic art and craft that in itself requires the student to acquire a considerable level of expertise and "technical know-how" passed down from generation to generation. The dial must visually satisfy the dual requirements of the company: not only must it be pleasing to the eye, but it must also be instantly recognizable and easy to read. A large amount of data must be conveyed more harmoniously by means of hands or calendar windows on a usually small dial. The dial can usually be divided into several parts, and in addition to refinement and aesthetics, its decorator must resolve to highlight and differentiate the study of these for the different areas. In order to realize this point in society, the Haute Horlogerie dial maker has to be well versed in the artisanal production process, which is usually centuries old.

The underside of the dial is made of gold, silver or copper, sometimes in the form of a soft arch, which the watchmaker rivets together with fine pins before examining the internal and external contours of the clock rings and other display subdials.

Engraving straight or circular lines on metal surfaces is a time-honored craft mastered by only a few artisans. Each line is only a few tenths of a millimeter wide and three to four percent of a millimeter deep, and these overlapping or intertwining lines create an infinite variety of patterns that catch and reflect light. The final step is to drill the holes for the diamonds and then use a file to smooth the small holes that carry the shafts of the hands. A skeleton is left for the subdial, and then three-dimensional graduated numerals and markers are fitted to the hour circle.

Thus, the value of an expensive luxury watch often lies in the details.